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On today’s stage, the Portuguese Coastal Route throws some more elevation into the mix!

Since you’ve been in Spain, you’ve had the Atlantic Ocean on your left and steep hills on your right. This time, the Camino makes a right turn to take the hills head-on!

On your walk from Vildadesuso to A Ramallosa, the Camino takes you on a combination of dirt paths, bike lanes, and back roads. While there will be some road walking on today’s stage, it never really feels busy.

With stunning views and the beautiful old town of Baiona as a nice highlight, this is one of my favorite stages on the Coastal Route!

Save it for later! ↓

Quick links:

• Coastal Route Overview
• Yesterday’s stage: Caminha to Viladesuso
• Tomorrow’s stage: A Ramallosa to Vigo

Viladesuso To A Ramallosa (Coastal) Overview

Experience Today’s Walk
☑ See the beautiful Cape Silleiro lighthouse in the distance
☑ Taste Octopus! Galicia is famous for its pulpo, and Baiona is famous for it among Gallegos!
☑ Hear the waves break on the rocks when you leave in the early morning
☑ Touch the old ruts in the rocks made by wagons long ago
☑ Smell salty ocean air when you step out of your albergue

After a few kilometers, the Camino route splits into two different routes, and you have to choose whether to go over or around the big hill. While the climb isn’t as steep as those you find on the central route or the Spiritual Variant, it can still feel strenuous if you’re not used to it.

Although today’s stage features beautiful coastal scenery, sandy beaches like those in Portugal are now mostly a thing of the past. Instead, you get rocky shores that are charming but create a different overall vibe. While the Spanish section still has beautiful beaches, they tend to be smaller than those south of the Minho River.

The second stage of the Coastal Route is a short one, but there are two hills to climb today. After Monte de Baredo, you have to cross another one just before you descend into Baiona. Most pilgrims will find that the climbs are doable as long as they move at their own pace.

After Baiona, you continue walking to A Ramallosa on mostly quiet back roads where cars are rare.

Coastal Route or Senda Litoral?

When you leave Viladesuso, the Camino takes onto the bike lane next to the PO-552, the highway in the direction of Vigo. For a few kilometers, the road goes north until you approach the town of As Mariñas. The decision point is a few kilometers before you reach town.

There are two Camino Routes to Baiona, the Senda Litoral and the Coastal Route, and you have to choose which one to take a few kilometers before you reach town. Where the Coastal Route takes you across Monte de Baredo, the Senda Litoral stays largely flat and goes around the north side of the hill.

Having done both, I recommend not taking the left turn that goes around the hill. Instead of going around, taking the hill head-on is more beautiful (in my opinion, of course!). Unlike the Senda Litoral, the views of the coast from up high are stunning.

Map

Our map starts at the Albergue da Estrela in Viladesuso, where we once again step on the Camino de Santiago.

Today’s stage ends at the Roman Bridge in A Ramallosa. We chose this spot because there are so many accommodation options in town, and this felt the closest thing to a central stopping point.

Distance and Elevation*

Distance: 19 km / 11.81 miles
Elevation gained: 363 meters / 1,190.55 feet
Elevation lost: 379 meters / 1,243.44 feet

*Distances are estimates. Learn why on our methodology page.

Amenities

Depending on your chosen Camino Route, amenities may be a big issue today after you leave Viladesuso. Although the day ends with plenty of amenities, there may be little on the way there.

In Viladesuso, the no-nonsense Cafe-Bar Sal de Mar serves good food and coffee. If you’re willing to wait until 8 am, this place has everything you need for an amazing breakfast. If you want to hit the road earlier than 8, I highly recommend getting your caffeine for the day in Pedra Rubia at either O Muiño or at the bar Peñasco instead.

On this stage, many amenities in these small villages only open for the busier months. When we walked the stage in March, we were expecting to be able to stop at some of these places, but they were all closed for the season. You should be fine if you’re walking during the summer months, but make sure to check their opening hours before you leave!

Fortunately, things change for the second half of the day. Once you’re across Monte de Baredo, you’ll find plenty of amenities in Baiona, where I enjoyed the coffee and the views at the Taberna A Capela.

Likewise, the day ends in the bustling town of A Ramallosa where there’s no shortage of places to eat and drink.

What’s In Store on the Camino de Santiago

For the first half of the day, the route of the Camino follows the PO-552 road. The coastal scenery continues to be very nice and the wide bike lane ensures the road never feels dangerous.

Although roadwalking is occasionally part of today’s stage, the Camino tries very hard to minimize it by taking you away from the road as often as possible. The little detours are a bit hit and miss; they tend to offer beautiful views, but sometimes it feels like you’re doing a lot of extra walking just to escape the road for a few hundred meters.

This stage has a lovely start to the day, and it keeps getting better in the second half. As they go up Monte de Baredo, pilgrims are rewarded with breathtaking views of the Spanish coastline.

The two routes can merge again in Baiona, from where you continue walking on quiet car roads for the final stretch.

Morning: Along the Coast to A Mariñas

For the first half of the day, the Camino route takes you on unpaved roads as it follows the PO-552. Whether you’re walking on grass, rocks, or gravel, anything is a welcome change from the cobblestones in Portugal!

The coastline becomes a little more rugged, and sandy beaches slowly become a thing of the past. As a result, the towns in Spain feel different from the ones in Portugal. Where Portuguese towns wear their seafaring history on their sleeve, the identity of Spanish towns is less pronounced.

If you choose to stop at the Pañesco bar in Pedra Rubia, take a moment to visit the workshop of the nearby Artesania Pedra Rubia, which is the perfect place to pick up some nice souvenirs. Personally, I especially liked the handmade Camino-themed goods for sale in the little shop that’s directly on the main road.

Afternoon: Over the Hill to Baiona

When you decide to take the inland route, the climb over Monte de Baredo starts just before you reach the town of A Mariñas. If you want to see the route laid out, look for the start of the Camiño da Portela on Google Maps.

Almost immediately, it feels like you took a wrong turn. The Camino Portugues passes directly in front of someone’s house, and it seems to go straight through their yard! Don’t worry, because this is the official route of the Camino Portugues.

Once you pass through the small metal gate, the route goes up for a while. The path becomes an old road that is a reminder of the long history of this pilgrimage. If you look closely, you can still see the ruts made by countless wagons and carts in days gone by.

After you enter the town of Baredo, you’re only one more climb away from Baiona. The second climb to Monte Alto Miradoiro isn’t as bad as the first one. In fact, I thought the little stairs that take you onto the Estrada de Baredo were the hardest part.

Just before you get to A Ramallosa, the beautiful city of Baiona is the final stop before the end of the day. The harbor with its imposing fortress is worth a visit, even if you took the inland route. While you’re there, notice a replica of the Pinta, one of Columbus’s ships that set sail from Baiona.

Arriving in A Ramallosa

Today’s stage ends in A Ramallosa, a nice Spanish town with beautiful beaches and nice views of the Ría de Vigo and the Cies Islands behind it.

If you’re looking for good places to take a rest day, visiting the Cies Islands makes for a great excursion. After a short boat ride, you’ll have a day filled with sea, beaches and stunning hiking.

Every pilgrim enters town by crossing the Miñor River on the historic Roman bridge. Although there is a car road, the ancient bridge is available to pedestrians and pilgrims.

A Ramallosa feels much more like an actual town, which is a welcome change after a few days of more remote and rural walking. There are plenty of places to eat and enjoying a drink on the Playa America is the perfect way to end the day.

Accommodation Options

Arriving in A Ramallosa means there are plenty of options for finding a bed for the night. Whether you’re looking for a bunk bed in a shared room or the luxury of a hotel room all to yourself, you shouldn’t have any difficulty finding it.

The charming private albergue Hospedería Pazo Pías is located just a few blocks from the historic bridge. Unlike some of the other albergues, this place allows you to book in advance, which is great news for anyone walking during peak season! Although this albergue has plenty of amenities, doing laundry isn’t possible here.

Close to the beautiful Playa America, the Hotel Miramar is the perfect place for any pilgrims looking for more luxury. With several restaurants as well as a supermarket nearby, this hotel is a great place if you plan to walk along the coast to Vigo.

Extending or Shortening the Stage

Although the stage from Viladesuso to A Ramallosa has some elevation, it’s not a long stage. Because the following stage to Vigo is longer, some pilgrims choose to walk a little further than A Ramallosa.

Longer Stage: Nigrán

On Google Maps you can see that A Ramallosa is more or less connected to several other towns. One of them, Nigrán, is the perfect stop for anyone looking to shorten tomorrow’s stage.

When I walked the Coastal Route to Santiago this year, I stayed at the amazing hotel Ó Retiro. This place is very affordable and comes with a great bar downstairs. Although it’s just outside of the city center, it’s right there on the Camino route.

This place is popular with pilgrims, so book ahead if you plan on staying here during peak season!

Shorter Stage: Baiona

For a shorter stage, consider taking off your bag in Baiona. There’s so much to see and explore here, which is why Baiona is such a good place to stop for the night.

Pilgrims looking for a cheap bed for the night should consider the Albergue Estela do Mar. Here you’ll get all the basic amenities that make up the classic Camino experience, such as shared rooms, bunk beds, and a communal kitchen.

If you prefer private rooms over dormitories, consider the charming Hotel Bahía Baiona. Located right next to a small beach overlooking the harbor, this hotel puts you right in the middle of the lively old town.

As a final benefit, there’s a direct bus from Baiona to Vigo.

Buen Camino

With this stage behind you, the Coastal Route is slowly coming to an end. After today, there are only two stages left on the Coastal Route of the Camino Portugues. Tomorrow you walk to Vigo, the day after to Redondela and from there, pilgrims from each of the Camino Routes walk together to complete the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela Cathedral.

Enjoy the last few days on the Coastal Route and Buen Camino!