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The long stage from Viana do Castelo to Caminha offers some of the best scenery of the entire Coastal Route.
After a morning of sweeping views of the Atlantic Ocean, the Camino takes you on a beautiful path right next to the coast for the afternoon. For the second half of the day, you walk on a lovely (and flat!) yellow road that will make yesterday’s steep climbs feel like a distant memory.
Let’s look at what the Camino has in store on this exciting last day in Portugal!
Save it for later! ↓
Quick links:
- Coastal Route Overview
- Yesterday’s stage: Esposende to Viana do Castelo
- Tomorrow’s stage: Caminha to Viladesuso
Viana Do Castelo To Caminha (Coastal) Overview
Experience Today’s Walk
☑ See the mountains of Spain appear in front of you when leaving Viana do Castelo
☑ Taste your last pastel de nata of the trip in Caminha
☑ Hear ‘Bom Caminho!’ for the last time
☑ Touch the old stones of the Igreja Matriz in Caminha
☑ Smell the flowers when you cross the stone bridge in Armada
With 26.6 km, today’s stage is one of the longer ones on the Portuguese Camino. Fortunately, there is only one climb today. About 14 km in, the Camino starts to go up, and this climb can feel strenuous on hot days. Fortunately, it also means that you’re halfway there!
After you leave Viana do Castelo, the Camino runs parallel to the Atlantic Ocean as it runs north towards Caminha. The Coastal Route joins the Senda Litoral and continues on a lovely path with stunning coastal views.
About halfway the day, you’ll reach the small town of Vila Praia de Âncora. With its many amenities, this is a great place to stop for a coffee or just rest before the final stretch.
Throughout the day, keep an eye out for the mountains of Spain. As you walk along the coast, you’ll soon see the mountains of Galicia on the other side of the Minho River.
Pilgrims walking on stone paths between Viana do Castelo and Caminha on the Coastal Route of the Portuguese Camino 
Homes perched on the lush Portuguese hillside in Afife 
Views of the Atlantic Ocean over the eucalyptus trees in Afife 
A pilgrim walking through the lush forest wearing a backpack with a scallop shell hanging from the back 
An old, rusty Camino arrow sign in front of the Atlantic Ocean in Moldeo 
Lush purple flowers found along the Coastal Route of the Camino Portuguese 
Pilgrims walking next to the ocean alongside goats between Viana do Castelo and Caminha 
Goats grazing beside the Atlantic Ocean in Moldeo, Portugal
Map
Our map starts in front of the tourism office in Viana do Castelo. To reach the Rua de São Tiago, walk up until you see the Praça da república in the town center. Then, turn left onto the Rua Cândido do Reis, from where you can follow the main street. This road will take you out of town.
The tourism office presents an important decision point for the day. This is where you can choose to take the Senda Litoral or the Coastal Route to Caminha.
The map ends in Caminha, on the super cute central square in front of the clock tower. Relaxing while chatting to fellow pilgrims in one of the many restaurants makes for a memorable evening.
Distance and Elevation*
Distance: 26.6 km / 16.53 miles
Elevation gained: 609 meters / 1,998.69 feet
Elevation lost: 612 meters / 2,008.53 feet
*Distances are estimates. Learn why on our methodology page.
Amenities
With its many supermarkets and cafes, starting in Viana do Castelo means finding supplies for the day won’t be a problem. There is a Froiz supermarket in front of the train station and you’ll find several cafes along the way.
About 8 km after you leave Viana do Castelo, the town of Carreço has the lovely Café Central that offers coffee as well as pastries and sandwiches. In the morning, the chairs outside are in the shade which makes it a perfect stop for a coffee.
Although there are many places in the first part of the day, the final stretch to Caminha has little to no amenities. After Vila Praia de Âncora, there are no amenities until you reach your destination for the day. Like Viana de Castelo, Caminha has several small supermarkets and restaurants.
What’s In Store on the Coastal Route
This stage is a stunning farewell to Portugal. As you get closer to Spain, the coast becomes more and more rocky and rugged. It won’t be long before the mountains of Galicia first appear.
For the first part of the day, the journey takes you on the familiar streets with forests on the right and views of the Atlantic on the left. While there are sections of dirt tracks and paths, the majority of the day will be on various types of cobblestones.
The second half of the day is a lovely walk right next to the Atlantic coast, where you can taste the salty air and really feel the sea breeze on your face.
Since the Portuguese half of the trip is coming to an end today, really take the time to take in the charm of this section of the Camino!
Leaving Viana do Castelo
Although there are plenty of yellow arrows, the walk out of Viana do Castelo can be confusing. When I was there, there was some construction which made it hard to follow the official route. Keep your phone in hand for this one!
Leaving the city involves several underpasses crossing the N13, the city’s ring road. While I couldn’t follow the arrows the whole way, I was able to continue walking without getting lost. Stay calm and give yourself enough time to navigate this tricky network of roads.
You leave town on the Rua Dom Moisés Alves de Pinho, and as long as you get to this street, you’re good. You can find the street behind the train station.
Historical Fun Fact: Although the Central Route follows the oldest roads, the Coastal Route also has centuries of pilgrim history! Before you leave, make sure you stop by the Old Pilgrim’s Hospice in Viana do Castelo. This place offers a glimpse of what pilgrimage was like, and you can find lots of information on other historic sites connected to the pilgrimage!
There are two options when walking from Viana do Castelo to Caminha. You can continue walking on the Coastal Route or choose the Senda Litoral if you want to experience the Ocean up close and personal!
Morning: Carreço and Armada
Once you leave the hustle and bustle of Viana do Castelo behind, things quickly quiet down as you make your way north. For the first few kilometers, you have nice views of the church of Santa Luzia on your right and the harbour with its fort of Santiago da Barra on the left.
After about an hour of walking, you enter Areosa which is the first town of the day. This is where you get your first taste of the narrow and winding streets that you’ll be on for most of the morning. The lovely Rua da Boa Viagem is a super cute area with beautiful trees and views of the Atlantic.
For the next few kilometers, the Camino takes you on narrow streets with stone walls on either side. Be careful as you make your way to Carreço with its famous lighthouse; the stones occasionally change into large and uneven slabs of rock that can be slippery when wet.
Continue walking through very nice forests until you reach the small town of Armada, another hidden gem on the Camino. The cobblestone streets have a medieval feel, especially when you walk across the old stone bridge and pass the church. When I was there, everything was lush and green and the views of the Atlantic Ocean are absolutely stunning!
After Armada, we start today’s only climb. Fortunately, the climb isn’t too long. While the first 15 km of the day has more minor gains and losses in terms of elevation, it never really feels like you’re climbing actuall hills until this one.
Afternoon: Vila Praia de Âncora
After you get to the top of the hill, it’s an easy descent first into Âncora and after a short walk on various dirt paths, the beautiful former fishing town of Vila Praia de Âncora.
Upon entering town, weary pilgrims are greeted by the smells of bakeries and cafes as well as a Froiz supermarket. While this is a great place for lunch, I highly recommend walking a little further and continuing straight into town.
The best place to break for lunch is the beautiful promenade, where you can sit right next to the beach. If you’re like me and like to bring a packed lunch, consider walking a little further past the promenade. A little after the Fort of Lagarteira, there is a set of swing benches on overlooking the ocean!
From Vila Praia de Âncora, the Camino becomes a pleasant paved road that takes you straight to Caminha. For most of what remains of the stage, you walk right next to the Atlantic Ocean with great views of Spain ahead.
I highly recommend deviating from the Coastal Route in Moledo. The official Coastal Route takes you on a very uninspiring walk into Caminha, and I suggest taking a short bit of the Senda Litoral here. Be aware that this last detour isn’t in the guidebooks, so you’ll have to use Google Maps to find it!
In Moledo, step onto the Rua de Fontenela and eventually turn left onto the Mata do Camarido. Continue straight through the forests until you reach the Minho River.
Arriving in Caminha
No matter how you choose to walk into town, the clock tower of Caminha marks the end point of this stage and the Portuguese section of the Camino.
Many pilgrims crash in the little square in the town center, but Caminha is very worth exploring. There are many little streets, shops, and restaurants that are worth a visit.
Keep in mind that after you cross over into Spain, certain things will change. Personally, I’m always shocked by how different the two countries are. At least, take a moment to have one last coffee at a Portuguese bakery!
Taking the Train
Caminha can easily be reached by train. With tickets costing only a few euros, the train is a great option for any pilgrims short on time or just looking for a rest day.
There are two stations in town (Caminha Station and Senhora da Agonia), but most trains will arrive at Caminha Station. After crossing the train tracks, it’s less than a 10-minute walk to the clock tower in the town center.
If you want to skip Caminha, Viana do Castelo is where you can board the train to Valença instead.
Accommodation Options in Caminha
Caminha isn’t just popular with pilgrims; it’s also a popular tourist destination in Portugal. As a result, you can find many hotels, guest houses, and albergues in town.
There are several official pilgrim albergues in towns. So, it shouldn’t be hard to find fellow pilgrims to celebrate the end of the Portuguese Camino with. Personally, I really enjoyed Bom Caminha since it has a kitchen and a nice outside space.
If you want to celebrate the end of the Portuguese Coastal Way with a bit of luxury, then consider staying at the Design&Wine Hotel. In addition to its comfy rooms, the hotel’s location can’t be beat. It’s right on the town square and just a few minutes from the Taxi Boat to Spain.
Preparing for the Next Stage
After Caminha, the Portuguese Coastal Route crosses into Spain. Taking the water taxi across the River Minho is an exciting part of the journey. Fortunately, crossing the river is super easy and will only take a few minutes.
Crossing the Minho River
These days, crossing the river involves a short boat ride on a tiny motorboat. As you approach the large roundabout, you can still see the old, significantly bigger ferry boat. Unfortunately, it’s no longer in use.
Two companies in town can take you across the river: Taxi Mar and Xacobeo Transfer. Both use similar boats and drop you off at the same point. The boat ride can be bouncy and wet on windy days, so make sure your rain gear is within reach!
There is a third option (Taxiboat Peregrinos) just outside of Caminha that handles the transfer. Although I haven’t used them myself, I have heard of a few pilgrims with bad experiences.
Buying the 6-euro ticket is pretty straightforward and can be done either in-person or online. Although I have never crossed the river in absolute peak season, I have never had to book ahead. It’s just a matter of showing up, and it normally takes just a few minutes before you can go.
Be aware that they don’t always accept cards. The last time I crossed, they insisted on cash only!
Connecting to the Central Route
While the Coastal Route is stunning, many pilgrims choose to walk a combination of the Coastal Route and the Central Route. From Caminha, the route connects to the Central at Valença.
You have two options to go to Valença. You either take a 17-minute trainride or walk a roughly 30-kilometer stage along the Minho River.
Shortening or Extending the Stage
The last stage is long, and many pilgrims choose to shorten it to give themselves one more day in Portugal. After all, Portugal has so much to offer, and it seems like beaches just get more and more beautiful the closer you get to Spain.
All the more reason to take your time and take in one last Portuguese sunset!
Shorter Stage: Vila Praia de Âncora
Calling it a day at Vila Praia de Âncora is a great option that shaves off about 10 kilometers of today’s stage. If you leave early, staying in Vila Praia de Ancora lets you still cross the river Minho at a decent time. With beautiful ocean views, a charming fort, and loads of amenities, what’s not to like?
A word of caution when it comes to choosing your accommodation. It may be tempting to stay near the beach, but pilgrims have reported bad sleep because of the loud streetnoise.
Longer Stage: A Guarda (Spain)
Believe it or not, some pilgrims choose to walk to Caminha, cross into Spain, and then continue walking the short route to the town of A Guarda. While it only adds 3 kilometers to your day, you miss out on spending the night in Caminha and a lovely coastal walk!
Besides the charming town center of Caminha, the walk to A Guarda can be really nice if you take the longer route. Yes, you can turn right and take the shortcut but it’s so much more scenic to go left and follow the coastline into town!
There are two albergues in town, but I recommend the comfy Albergue O Peirao. The sunsets are amazing from the charming little harbour, and this albergue is only a block away from the coast.
Bom Caminho!
Things are about to change. Not only will you go from hearing Portuguese to Spanish, but the entire look and feel of the Camino changes once you cross the border. You’ll find that towns are different, and so are the people that you’ll meet.
So take a moment to really enjoy your time in Portugal. Grab one more pastel de nata, enjoy one last quality Portuguese coffee, and, if you haven’t done so already, a glass of Vino Verde!
Bom Caminho!
