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Taking the Central Route on the Portuguese Camino de Santiago means you’re in for two long stages at the very beginning of your journey. Today’s walk is one of those long stages, clocking in at 30km (18.5 miles).
If, like me, you were disappointed by the first stage of the Central Route from Porto, then rest assured. The second day on the Central Route is a significant improvement! Slowly but steadily, the Central Route starts to reveal its charm as suburbs are replaced by towns and vineyards.
Today is also the day when you encounter the first climbs of the route. While gentle at first, they can make the stage feel more strenuous than it already is. All the more reason to leave early!
Let’s take a moment to see what is waiting for you on day 2 of the Central Route of the Caminho Português!
Save it for later! ↓
Quick links:
- Central Route Overview
- Yesterday’s stage: coming soon
- Tomorrow’s stage: Barcelos to Ponte De Lima
Have a question? Leave a comment at the bottom and I’ll reply right away 🙂
Vairão to Barcelos Overview
Experience Today’s Walk
☑ See medieval arches of Ponte D. Zameiro over the Rio Ave
☑ Taste some frango assado (roast chicken) in Barcelos
☑ Hear the rush of the River Ave as you cross the medieval Ponte D. Zameiro
☑ Touch the stone of the Torre da Porta Nova in Barcelos
☑ Smell fresh-baked bread wafting out of Portuguese bakeries in Arcos
For most of the Central Route on the Camino Portugués, you’ll find that the landscape keeps improving the more you get away from Porto.
You don’t have to be on the road for long to feel how different this day is from yesterday. Enjoy the smell of pine, the sound of roosters crowing, and the sight of planes taking off from the Porto Airport. The city will feel far behind you as you walk into the Portuguese countryside between farms and small towns.
This stage (etapa Vairão-Barcelos in Portuguese), is longer than yesterday’s stage and you can feel it. If you’ve ever read anything about the painful effect of walking on cobblestones, this is the day that you’ll experience it too!
Distance and Elevation*
Distance: 29.3 kilometers / 18 miles
Elevation gained: 514 meters / 1,687 feet
Elevation lost: 553 meters / 1,814 feet
*Distances are estimates. Learn why on our methodology page.
Map
Our GPS tracks start at the Camino sign at the edge of town (next to the monastery) and end at the tourism office in Barcelos (population 120,000). If you haven’t done so already, get your pilgrim stamp here!
If you’ve stayed at the monastery in Vairão, the start of the trail is only about 100 meters away from your bed.
Amenities on Stage 2 of the Central Route
Day 2 is a long day, so leave early, take breaks, and enjoy the journey. Fortunately, this stage falls somewhere in between urban and rural; amenities are abundant.
While the times of a cafe on every corner may be behind you, there are still plenty of places around for snacks, lunch, and coffee.
Important: Now that you’ve left the city, not all establishments will accept bank cards. Always carry some cash.
What’s in Store
After leaving the hustle and bustle of Porto, this is where some of the magic of the Caminho
Portugués truly comes out. The outskirts of Porto are gradually replaced by vineyards and olive groves as you make your way to the medieval town of Barcelos.
Day two takes you through small sections of forest and woodland areas with the occasional panoramic view provided by the gentle rolling hills of the Portuguese countryside. On your way, you’ll cross several ancient bridges as you walk from town to town.
On this stage, you get to see some signs of the ancient origins of this trail. Throughout the Central Route, you’ll see references to the Via XIX since this way was once part of a network of old Roman trade routes that go back to the 1st century AD.
At the end of a long day, you have the charming town of Barcelos to look forward to, where you’ll have all the amenities you need.
Morning: Leaving Mosteiro de Vairão
Whether you choose to stay at the historic Mosteiro de Vairão or Vilarinho, it immediately becomes clear that you’re in for a very different day today.
Less than an hour after you leave Vairão, the path takes you across the River Ave on the scenic medieval bridge of Ponte D. Zameiro. On the other side of the river, you can see a sight that will soon become very familiar: a collection of cute white houses surrounding a historic church.
The early morning light gives the bridge a dreamy atmosphere that’s worth leaving early for. While it’s a little early to take a break, make sure to take some pictures here!
Afternoon: Café Barbosa and the Portuguese Countryside
As you enter the lovely countryside of Portugal, you’ll get a good sense of what today’s stage is all about. Scenic towns, historic churches, and lovely green pastures form the highlights of today’s walk.
You’ll also notice that the beautiful rolling hills make the stage feel a bit harder than it appears. Many pilgrims choose to stop at the town of Arcos, about 2.5 hours after leaving Vairão.
Besides the beautiful Igreja de Arcos, this town is also home to the excellent Café Barbosa.
On your walk, you’ll walk past several churches, and you can see one of the oldest ones about an hour after Arcos, in São Pedro de Rates. With some of the foundations going back to the 6th century, this church was once a center of pilgrimage in its own right.
According to legend, Saint Peter was invited by Saint James to help convert the native population to Christianity. Of course, like many saints, he was eventually martyred for his efforts.
Today, you’ll come across seemingly conflicting signs for the first time. Every once in a while, you’ll see these on the Central Camino, and they normally indicate an alternative route.
In this case, the first one takes you around a particularly dangerous stretch on the N306. While the direct route is shorter, it means walking on a busy road with little to no shoulder.
Arriving in Barcelos
The historic city of Barcelos is one of the highlights of the second day of the Central Route. As you approach the medieval bridge leading into town, the historic nature of this town quickly becomes apparent. Barcelos has a long history of catering to pilgrims and signs can be seen all over town.
Historical fun fact: On your way into town, don’t skip the Chapel of Our Lady of the Bridge (Nossa Senhora da Ponte). Inside, you can still see old stone benches and basins used by pilgrims to wash their feet after a long day on the trail.
With plenty of historic churches as well as excellent restaurants, Barcelos is definitely worth exploring. As you walk through the streets, it’s almost impossible to miss references to the Barcelos Rooster.
Legend has it that a pilgrim on his way to Santiago de Compostela was wrongfully convicted of theft when he passed through Barcelos. Before his execution, the pilgrim pointed at a roast chicken, stating it would come alive to serve as a sign of his innocence. Just as he was about to be hanged, the rooster got up from the plate and crowed, which saved the poor pilgrim.
Barcelos is a great place to sample some of the local cuisine. After all, it’s in the region known for its vino verde and it should come as no surprise that roast chicken is considered a local specialty.
Accommodations in Barcelos
As a medium-sized city in Portugal, Barcelos has many places to stay. On your way into town, you’ll see several albergues and budget hotels.
If you find yourself here in low season, you’re in luck as the prices for budget hotels tend to plummet in this time of year!
For those looking for the typical pilgrim accommodation, consider the Albergue de Peregrinos in the center of town. With a kitchen as well as laundry services available, this albergue has everything you could ask for.
As a great budget hotel, the In Barcelos Hostel & Guest House is located on the Camino. On my stay here, it came with affordable and comfortable rooms and even has breakfast options if you’re interested.
If you’re walking the Camino in the off-season, always check to see if options are available.
Crossing Over from the Coastal Route
If you want a break from the Atlantic Ocean, consider crossing over the Central Route. This stage is a convenient option and many pilgrims choose to walk to São Pedro de Rates from Póvoa de Varzim or Vila do Conde.
I haven’t walked this specific route myself, but several pilgrims have told me that it’s a very doable, if somewhat boring day of walking.
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