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This is a shorter stage, and it’s also one of the most beautiful of the Central Camino Route! For most of the day, you walk on a dirt path that takes you up the slopes of the Alto da Portela Grande (the highest point on the route).
While the climb is significant, the elevation gain is spread out over a longer distance, which makes it long but not particularly steep until the final stretch. Once you’re up there, I’m sure you’ll agree that the views are worth it (in clear conditions)!
Let’s take a moment to see what’s in store for this exciting day.
Save it for later! ↓
Quick links:
- Central Route Overview
- Yesterday’s stage: Barcelos to Ponte De Lima
- Tomorrow’s stage: Rubiães to Tui
Have a question? Leave a comment at the bottom and I’ll reply right away 🙂
Stage Overview
Experience Today’s Walk
☑ See the weathered Cruz dos Franceses (stone cross)
☑ Taste and savor a pilgrim’s meal in Rubiães after your steepest day on the Camino
☑ Hear the rush of the waterfall on the River Labruja
☑ Touch the Ponte Romana e Medieval (bridge) while leaving Ponte de Lima
☑ Smell the fresh air at the Alto da Portela Grande
Day 4 on the Central Route of the Portuguese Camino de Santiago is dominated by one thing: the climb up to Alto da Portela Grande.
Today is a proper challenge, but you’re encouraged by the visible traces of pilgrims who have made the climb you.
After you cross the beautiful medieval bridge (Ponte Romana e Medieval) of Ponte de Lima (population 42,000), the path is flat for a while. You find yourself on an old Roman road that takes you into the forest, and for a while, you can just enjoy the green.
First, you’ll see some beautiful forest scenery with waterfalls and cute Portuguese towns in the distance. After about 7km / 4 miles, the road changes from a largely dirt path to one that’s more and more rocky.
From there on, it’s upwards and onwards!
Distance and Elevation*
Distance: 18 kilometers / 11.2 miles
Elevation gained: 620 meters / 2,034 feet
Elevation lost: 403 meters / 1,322 feet
*Distances are estimates. Learn why on our methodology page.
Map
Today’s map starts at the tourism office in the center of Ponte de Lima. If you haven’t got your stamp yet, this is a great place to get it.
Take one final look at the Rio Lima and don’t forget to take a few pictures after you cross the bridge. Ponte de Lima is a stunning sight from this side of the bridge.
From there, you step onto a nice little stone path along a canal that takes you out of town. When I walked this in February, there were parts that had flooded, so be careful if you’re walking this after lots of rain.
The map for today’s stage, Ponte de Lima to Rubiães (population 500), ends at one of the better albergues in this tiny town, the Pilgrim’s Nest.
Amenities
Since the majority of today’s walk takes place in a forest, amenities are scarce on this stage. Make sure you pack lunch in Ponte de Lima before you leave town.
Reaching the top of the Alto da Portela Grande offers what I think is the best lunch spot on the entire Portuguese Camino de Santiago and you’ll regret not bringing one!
For the first half of the day, you’ll still find cafés as you walk through the small towns that make up this section. Sometimes you’ll have to wander off-trail to find coffee but many cafes, such as the surprisingly good café Veiga in Barrosas, have put out signs that make them easy to find.
Keep in mind that after the town of Codeçal, amenities won’t show up until after the climb.
What’s In Store
Looking back on today’s stage, you’ll probably remember little else besides the climb. While there are plenty of cute towns in the first half of the stage, their memory is quickly replaced by the rather challenging walk up the mountain.
The day starts out as an even more pleasant version of yesterday’s stage. As you walk through fields, forest and farmland, the day feels even more rural than yesterday, and the color green is even more dominant.
However, things are about to change and the road eventually turns into a rocky path with plenty of gravel and loose stones as it starts to climb. After a long ascent, you are rewarded with spectacular views of the Minho River valley.
Morning: Cross the Medieval Bridge out of Ponte de Lima
Day 4 on the Camino Portuguese starts in the lovely town of Ponte de Lima. After you walk across the medieval bridge, take a moment to stop at the Restauro à Sexta shop for a fun pilgrim experience and a nice stamp.
The owner will give you a nice pilgrim stamp but not after putting on his pilgrim hat, getting his staff, and wishing you a ‘Buen Camino!’ in your own language! After that, he takes out what he calls “his computer,” which is actually a stone tile that acts as a pilgrim counter (we were number 22,453).
Write your number, say goodbye and head straight into the now familiar-looking Portuguese countryside.
After about an hour of walking, you enter the town of Arcozelo. As you walk past the charming Igreja de Santa Marinha de Arcozelo, don’t miss the sign pointing you in the direction of Café Veiga! With OK coffee, it’s a popular stop for many passing pilgrims to get their shot of caffeine for the day.
Now that you’re caffeinated up, you’re ready to follow the path past vineyards until it eventually becomes a paved road at the charming Roman bridge of Arco da Geia. On your way, you’ll see very nice forest stretches and even a very cute waterfall.
Afternoon: Climb to Alto da Portela Grande
The rest of the day all about the climb. When you reach Café Cunha Nunes in Codeçal, take a moment to round out any gaps in your lunchbox and refill your water bottle. Also when you’re at it, grab another shot of caffeine because the climb that follows is rough.
From here on, it’s simply onwards and upwards. At first, the path freely jumps between cobblestone roads and dirt roads. However, the climbing intensifies when you reach the rocky section on the old Roman road.
The slopes get steeper and the terrain gets more difficult. Close to the summit, you’ll see an old, weathered stone cross (Cruz dos Franceses) with lots of pictures, rocks, and scallop shells at its base. Once you see this cross, you’re almost at the highest point!
Many pilgrims consider this big climb as one of the most challenging stages of the Camino Portugués, especially if you’re not used to walking in elevation.
No matter what you see other pilgrims do, always make a point to walk at your own pace. The path is fine in good weather but if you have to do it in bad weather, the rain can make it slippery and dangerous.
While the climb is hard, the rewards are great. You’ll get some great views and a nice and relaxing descent into the tiny village of Rubiães.
Arriving in Rubiães
Walking down into Rubiães is a pleasant slow descent. As you get closer to town, the path becomes a paved road which makes for an easy walk.
With its small collection of houses scattered around fields and vineyards, Rubiães feels both rural and authentic. There’s a small river that runs through the valley and you can spot several small but historic bridges in the area.
If you follow the Camino onto the EN201, the main road through town, ignore the yellow arrows and turn left for a few meters to visit the Igreja São Pedro de Rubiães. Parts of this church go back to the 12th century and it is worth a visit.
Turning right on the other hand takes towards the accommodations in town and towards Restaurante Bom Retiro. Although this is the only restaurant in town, it’s a good one that serves an excellent pilgrim menu. Personally, I really recommend the veal!
Accommodations in Rubiães
Despite it being a small village of just a few hundred inhabitants, Rubiães is surprisingly rich in accommodations.
On the main road, you can find no less than three albergues of varying quality.
For pilgrims on a budget, try the Albergue de Peregrinos de S. Pedro de Rubiães. Amenities are basic but clean and this pilgrim’s hostel comes with a kitchen and a lovely outside area.
If you want a little more comfort, head to the Ninho Albergue. Also called the Pilgrim Nest, this place offers more comfortable beds.
Reward yourself with a bit of luxury after a long climb by staying at the Casa Quinta do Crasto. You’ll find comfortable beds and showers and there are rumours of an excellent breakfast.
Extending or Shortening the Stage
Some pilgrims combine this stage with the next and walk to from Ponte de Lima to Tui in a single day. However, the pilgrims I met told me that it was about the physical challenge more than the stage. If you feel up for it, prepare for a gruelling 38km that includes some severe climbs!
Ponte de Lima to Rubiães is considered one of the most challenging stages on the Central Route of the Camino Portugues. At the same time, it’s one of the most scenic parts of the Portuguese Way and it would be a shame to rush through it!
Longer Stage: Valença
While walking to the Portuguese city of Valença still makes for a hefty day, it’s at least a few kilometers shorter than going all the way to Tui!
If you’re a history buff like me, then Valença will be one of the highlights of the Central Route. With its impressive fortications and well-preserved historic center, Valença is an amazing place to stop for the night. The Hostel Bulwark is popular with pilgrims and you will have plenty of opportunities to share some stories of the trail!
Buen Camino!
With Portugal coming to an end, you’ll have to get used to hearing ‘Buen Camino!’. No matter where you stop for the night, make sure you enjoy Portugal for all it has to offer.
Buen Camino!
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