As an Amazon Associate, I earn commission from qualifying purchases.
Today’s stage, Barcelos to Ponte de Lima (Portuguese Camino Stage 3), is a very long one. At 33.5 kilometers / 21 miles long, it’s the longest stage on any of the Portuguese Caminos!
As if the length wasn’t enough, the stage to Ponte de Lima is also the first to feature some elevation with two climbs of about 200 meters / 250 feet.
Fortunately, it’s also the stage where the Central Route of the Portuguese Way really comes into its own. It’s a beautiful walk through the Portuguese countryside with plenty of cute towns, traditional chapels, and natural beauty for you to enjoy.
As a final reward, the historic gem of Ponte de Lima (population 2,800) with its famous medieval bridge is waiting at the end of your day.
Save it for later! ↓
Quick links:
- Central Route Overview
- Yesterday’s stage: Vairão to Barcelos
- Tomorrow’s stage: Ponte De Lima to Rubiães
Have a question? Leave a comment at the bottom and I’ll reply right away 🙂
Stage Overview
Experience Today’s Walk
☑ See the Saint James Camino shrine in Facha
☑ Taste a glass of Vinho Verde, a Portuguese wine
☑ Hear the sounds of farm life (sheep, tractors, and roosters)
☑ Touch the Teresa de Leão Camino de Santiago mural in Ponte de Lima
☑ Smell the fresh pine and eucalyptus forest aromas
On this long stage, the road from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima takes you on a mixture of cobblestone streets and asphalt.
By now, you may have developed the same love-hate relationship with those cobblestones as I have. Sure, they look cute, but they really hurt your feet and knees after a few kilometers!
After a somewhat disappointing first day out of Porto, the second day was a big improvement. Today’s walk continues that trend and is an even better stage than yesterday.
Distance and Elevation*
Distance: 32.6 kilometers / 20.2 miles
Elevation gained: 499 meters / 1,637 feet
Elevation lost: 528 meters / 1,732 feet
*Distances are estimates. Learn why on our methodology page.
Map
For the Central route, stage 3 is particularly well-marked, which makes it easy to follow. The yellow arrows start on the Avenida da Liberdade in Barcelos, and from there on, you won’t have any problems navigating.
Warning: Beware of the conflicting signage! Normally, all yellow arrows point in the same direction, but not on this stage. Here you’ll see ‘official’ signs pointing you one way and hand-painted yellow arrows pointing the other.
An example of this is the detour to the Igreja de São Martinho at Balugães. Although the 12th-century church is worth a visit, it means adding several kilometers to an already long day. Follow the hand-painted yellow arrows for the shorter route.
Amenities on the Central Route
This stage is significantly more rural than the earlier ones on the Central Route, and amenities are a little harder to find.
While you will walk past several cafes, they’re not as frequent as they were on the first two days. That affordable cup of coffee is still available, but you’ll have to grab it when you see one. The same is true when it comes to finding a bathroom.
Warning: On this stage, not every cafe accepts payment by card. Bring a few euros with you just to be safe.
What’s in Store
The stage from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima is a beautiful stage through Portuguese farmland with vineyards and a few woodland areas. On your way, you’ll walk on paved roads as well as the occasional dirt path.
Despite its significant length, this stage doesn’t have any steep inclines or descents. There is the climb to Portela de Tamel, but you will find that it’s a slow burn rather than a steep slope.
While this stage isn’t particularly difficult in terms of elevation, doing a 34km walk this early into your Camino could be strenuous for first-time pilgrims.
Morning: Leaving Barcelos
Walking into Barcelos was a joy. With its old fortifications and medieval bridge, Barcelos makes you see why the Central Route continues to be such a popular route. The historic splendor continues on your way out.
My GPS tracks start at the tourism office in the town of Barcelos. From there, you walk past the imposing medieval tower onto Avenida da Liberdade. This street has plenty of cafes with breakfast, as well as any supplies you need for the road. If you haven’t taken out cash, this is a great place to do so.
Top tip: Barcelos is a great place to catch the sunrise. Since the walk from Barcelos to Ponte de Lima is such a long stretch, I chose to get up early. Leaving town, you have the sun on your right-hand side, which makes for some spectacular views!
Afternoon: More Countryside and Vineyards
Today’s stage takes you onto more secluded paths, and while there’s the occasional stretch on the road and even some elevation, the walk is overall very pleasant.
First off, the elevation gain isn’t that bad. If you’ve done other Caminos de Santiago, you will have probably walked steeper slopes. However, if this is your first Camino de Santiago, you may find this a little strenuous. Just pace yourself, take your time, and you’ll get there!
Where the previous stage never gave you the feeling of leaving urban areas, it will feel different today. Towns are further apart, and they become significantly more rural.
About 10 kilometers in, you’ll walk past the first of many parish churches dedicated to the Virgin Mary. Sometimes, the Virgin Mary is known by different names and you’ll see chapels of Nossa Senhora das Neves (Our Lady of the Snows) or Nossa Senhora das Necessidades (Our Lady of Necessities).
On this stage, you’ll see signs of the history of the Camino Portugués. Keep an eye out for the stone crosses along the way. In earlier times, it was believed they conveyed a level of spiritual protection to pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela.
The Central Camino is the oldest route of the Camino Portugues. There are many historic churches and medieval bridges across the rivers Neiva and Lima on this stage, which add to the historic atmosphere.
Arriving in Ponte de Lima
Although you technically meet the Rio Lima (Lima River) for the first time at Ponte das Tábuas, it’s not until you reach your final destination of Ponte da Lima that you get a good look at it.
Ponte de Lima has plenty of amenities, all open from early in the morning to late in the evening. On your way into town, you immediately walk past a supermarket and an ATM.
The history of Ponte de Lima goes back to Roman times and it’s an absolute gem of a town. As Portugal’s oldest town, it’s no surprise that it’s full of history. It has a lot to offer, so take a moment to wander the streets of the old town and to visit the churches before you move on!
Historic fun fact: While you’re there, keep an eye out for Roman soldiers on the riverbank! There is an old legend of a group of Roman soldiers who refused to cross the river Lima. They believed it was one of the rivers in the underworld that erased the memory of anyone foolish enough to wade through. To show that it was perfectly safe, their commander went first and then went on to call each soldier by name to prove that his memory was still intact.
Accommodation in Ponte de Lima
As a major tourist and pilgrimage town, Ponte de Lima has plenty of options when it comes to finding a place to rest and sleep for the night. This town simply begs to be explored!
The most beautiful stretch along the river is taken up by more high-end(ish) hotels and restaurants. Places like the hotel Império del Norte can give you some well-deserved luxury after today’s hefty stage.
Budget options are also available. On the other side of the river, you can find the Albergue de Peregrinos de Ponte de Lima, a great and cheap option for pilgrims.
Finally, Ponte de Lima is a major tourist town that has a strong peak season, so book ahead if you plan on walking in the summer months!
Extending or Shortening the Stage
With a stage this long as well as one of the best albergues on the entire Camino located before Ponte de Lima, it’s no wonder that many pilgrims choose to cut this stage in half.
Shorter Stage: Vitorino Dos Piães
After a short 20-kilometer day, you arrive at the town of Vitorino dos Piães.
Many pilgrims choose to end this stage here in the almost legendary albergue Casa da Fernanda!
